September 19-21: WALKING THROUGH MARSEILLE IN CURVES, STRIKES, AND STRAIGHT LINES

First view of Marseilles from the terrace in front of the railway station

Marseille is a stop-off to see my friend Agata on the way through to Montpellier to do a show. Jumping out of my lovely TGV (only 0.7 kg of transit carbon emitted vs 6.1kg on a regional TER), slipping in and out of the in-station free wi-fi zone, and out onto the terrace, it's immediately impressive. And the immediate decision is to walk to the church-marked high point to see the view at sunset.

Sunset view from the future or the past, depending on time perspectives

Almost the only thing I know about the city is that it, alongside Trieste, was once one of the most important Mediterranean ports. One writer acquaintance, Hugues, an import here from Paris, has coloured my insights into the city with his humorous and ironic episodic thumbnails, but he's not here to tour me around. And Agata I only get to see for one evening before she abandons me to the generous hospitality of her busy flatmates. I'm on my own and relying on instinct. 

Don't look down

After a long queue - think, French train strike imminent - to secure a train ticket for travel further west, and with a little advice and assistance from maps I follow the straight lines from where I'm staying in Rue de Lodi, to the top of that hill. It looks something like this...

He wasn't that bad

Rush-hour snakes slowly uphill

 

A miracle! Green oasis in the not-many-trees city

A miracle! Snow in Marseille

The only way is up, bébé

Ominous reflections

No clouds, so somewhat less spectacular this evening (one is in France, one must complain about something)

At the top of the hill I meet another imported sunset seeker, Aïfa, who has come down here from Paris to further her economics qualifications. We chat philosophy for a beautifully lit hour and find the solution to everything in the world with one word, community. Then we walk back down the hill. Here she is at the other end of my straight road line, Rue Dragon...

After all, not on my own! Marseille, so long, and thanks for all the fish...

Detail, Gare Marseille St Charles (St Charles Station, Marseilles)